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When you get to the end of the county road in Waipio Valley on the Big Island of Hawaii, turn left up, this stream. It comes right out again in a 100 yards or so, as you head back up the valley.
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Actually, until the 1990’s, this was part of the county road but when the sugar plantation closed, it was too expensive for the county to maintain. The land was returned to Bishop Museum and the other original private land-owners. Access became more difficult for off-road owners.
Available 'fee simple' (freehold) land in Waipio is slightly less rare than hens teeth. Most of the farms are leased, and while the tenants may let you pass through, only actual land- owners or the court can give you legal access. Technically, you cannot be denied access to your property although leaseholders may make it difficult.
The Treehouse was granted legal road access from a court decision rendered in 1998.
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Heading into the valley on the right-hand side of the road, we get the first view of Papala, our 1000 foot, spring-fed, year-round waterfall, caught here on a misty morning with the obligatory rainbow.
In terms of climate, the valley's often cooled by the snows on Mauna Kea. Temperatures range between the 60’s and 80’s, hovering in the early and mid 70’s. There’s an old joke here: in the rainy season it may rain four or three days a week,but in the dry season it may rain three or four days a week. Please disregard all other rains; they are either pre- rainy season or pre-dry season rains!
Every 10 or 20 years the valley gets heavy downpours and flooding. Being 30 feet up in a Treehouse can be a major advantage although houses below are often built 10 feet off the ground.
Still, you can’t have a rainforest without rain, nor can you have rainbows, or air that always smells this fresh and sweet.
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Crossing the Main River in High Water
Suki says:
"Come on, I did it. So can you!"
(Note: You can't always.)
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"Over the river and through the woods To grandmother's house we go..."
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The Kukui Nut and Java Plums trees give way to Guavas and Fiddlehead Ferns on our final approach.
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Another island about the size of Waipio Valley is Manhattan, N.Y.C. Waipio Valley has perhaps 50 or so permanent residents with perhaps 100 more, mainly farmers, who come down on a regular basis.
The nearest village is up-top; Kukuihaele may have 100 or more residents nowadays. Nine miles from there is Honokaa town, boasting maybe 4,000 residents. Less than an 1½ hour drive away is Kona with its vaunted resort hotels and shops, restaurants and deep-sea fishing.
Even tiny Kukuihaele has felt the pressure from people eager to acquire land on this fabled island. In Waipio Valley with its limited available land, many inhabitants go back four and five generations. While tourists still visit the valley, residents all know each other, and may remember what their grandfathers said to one another.
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Two
tutu
(grandmothers) Nona Beamer with Linda Beach's
hanai mo'opuna
(adopted grandchildren) Noah and Miki Page.
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For more about Nona Beamer
Click Here.
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"No place this big can get along without at least half-a-dozen art galleries!"
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